Dealer fees and add-ons: which to pay, which to refuse

Every common line on a dealer quote, with a one-line verdict, what it really is, sourced prices where they exist, and a script to get it removed. The verdicts are the same rules our free scan and $19 report use.

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Junk

Little or no value. Ask for these to be removed; you don't have to pay for an add-on you didn't ask for.

  • Nitrogen tire fill: Junk. Regular air is already mostly nitrogen, and the tested benefit is tiny. Ask for it to be removed.
  • Paint & fabric protection: Junk. New cars' paint, frames and fabrics are built to last without dealer treatments. Ask for it to be removed.
  • VIN etching: Junk. Your VIN is already stamped in several places on the car, and DIY kits cost $10–$30. Ask for it to be removed.
  • Dealer prep fee: Junk. Getting the car ready to sell is part of the price; Consumer Reports says contest these charges. Ask for it to be removed.
  • Market adjustment (ADM): Junk. It's the dealer's own markup over sticker, not a cost. Negotiate it to $0 or shop another dealer.
  • Theft protection / LoJack: Junk. It's an optional theft product that's often pre-installed and charged without being asked for. Ask for it to be removed.
  • Wheel locks & accessories: Junk. Low-cost accessories marked up on the addendum. Refuse anything you didn't ask for.
  • Reconditioning fee: Junk. Getting a used car ready to sell is part of the price; FTC staff say required dealer fees belong in the advertised price. Ask for it to be removed.
  • Dealer add-on package: Junk. A pre-installed bundle you didn't ask for. You don't have to pay for it, even if the dealer says it's already on the car.

Negotiable

Real but optional or overpriced. Decline, shop around, or push the price down.

  • GAP insurance: Negotiable. It's optional and only helps if you owe more than the car is worth. Decline it or compare your insurer's price first.
  • Extended warranty / service contract: Negotiable. It's an optional service contract: decline it, buy it later, or negotiate the price hard.
  • Doc fee: Negotiable. It's dealer profit for paperwork: legit only up to your state's cap, and worth pushing on above it or in no-cap states.
  • Window tint: Negotiable. Tint has real value if you want it, but it's optional: decline it or match a tint shop's price.
  • Electronic filing fee: Negotiable. Legit only as a pass-through at cost where your state allows it (California: up to $33); otherwise it's often a second doc fee.

Legit

Pay these, but check the amount.

  • Destination charge: Legit on a new car if it matches the factory window sticker. On a used car, or above the sticker amount, it's junk.

Government charges (sales tax, title, registration) are legit at the government's actual rate: check them against your DMV's fee schedule.

More help

Out-the-door price calculator · Doc fees by state · Buyer guides · Compare TrustBuy